Brick Masonry Fundamentals: Building with Brick

The Basics of Brick Construction

Brick masonry is one of the oldest and most durable building methods in human history. Brick structures from thousands of years ago still stand today, testament to the material longevity when properly installed. Modern brick construction combines traditional techniques with improved materials and codes, producing walls that are strong, weather-resistant, fireproof, and aesthetically appealing.

Brick masonry requires understanding of mortar mixing, bond patterns, joint tooling, and moisture management. It is physically demanding work that benefits from practice and attention to detail. The satisfaction of building something with your hands that will last for generations makes it worthwhile. Use our Brick Calculator to estimate the number of bricks you need.

Mortar Mix for Bricklaying

Mortar is the glue that holds bricks together. Type S mortar is the standard for most above-grade brickwork. It has higher compressive strength than Type N and better bond strength. Mix using the proportions specified on the bag (typically 1 part cement, 1/2 part lime, 4.5 parts sand by volume). Mix only as much as you can use in about 90 minutes because mortar begins to set after that.

The consistency should be workable but not soupy. When you pick up a trowel full and hold it upside down, the mortar should stick to the trowel for a few seconds before sliding off. If it runs off immediately, it is too wet. If it crumbles and falls off, it is too dry. Add water gradually until you reach the right consistency. Remix periodically if the mortar starts to stiffen but do not add water after the initial mixing (this weakens the mortar).

Bond Patterns

The bond pattern is the arrangement of bricks in a wall. Running bond (also called stretcher bond) is the simplest and most common pattern, with each course offset by half a brick. English bond alternates courses of stretchers (long face) and headers (short face). Flemish bond alternates stretchers and headers within each course. Each course starts with a quarter bond offset for visual continuity.

For structural walls, English bond is the strongest because the header courses tie the two wythes (layers) together. For veneer walls, running bond is standard. Stack bond (bricks aligned vertically with no offset) looks clean but is the weakest pattern and should only be used for non-structural applications or when reinforced with horizontal joint reinforcement.

Laying Brick

Start with a dry run to check your layout and determine the length of the first course. If the last brick needs to be cut less than half width, adjust the starting point or joint width slightly. Spread a full bed of mortar on the footing or previous course using a trowel. Furrow the mortar with the trowel tip. Butter the end of each brick with a quick swipe of mortar.

Press each brick firmly into position, aligning it with your string line. Tap down with the handle of the trowel to the correct height. Check each course with a level as you go. After every 3-4 courses, check for plumb with a 4-foot level. Tool the joints when the mortar is thumbprint hard (firm enough to hold a thumbprint but still plastic). Use a joint raker for interior joints or a concave jointer for exterior joints. Tooling compresses the mortar and produces a neat, weather-resistant finish.